Carne Guisada

Carne guisada is literally “meat stew,” some version of which can be found in every cuisine. But what a stew it is, its meaty broth thickened with roux and animated with a magical mix of dried chiles, garlic, cumin, and black pepper. It was never part of the revolving Tex-Mex repertoire of picadillo, cheese enchiladas, and beef tacos that delighted my family over the years.